Walk on the wild side

Anna Maria Espsäter discovers luscious green hills, hot springs and tropical lagoons on a Ramblers Worldwide Holiday to the remote Atlantic islands of the Azores…

The nine islands of the Azores look like they’ve been recklessly flung into the Atlantic Ocean to fend for themselves. Although an autonomous region of Portugal, they’re all of 1,500km/930 miles from the mainland and a world apart. My walking holiday would explore a couple of these islands and their endless hiking possibilities in the company of a few fellow energetic and hearty ramblers.

Landing in darkness on the main island, São Miguel, I had the initial impression of being completely surrounded by lush, dark greenery on the drive to the hot springs and spa town of Furnas. The Azores islands were created by volcanic eruptions 250,000 years ago, making them one of the youngest landmasses on earth. These days the volcanoes are mostly quiet, with no eruptions since 1957, but the scenery they’ve created makes for some of the most fascinating and interesting walking in Europe.

Tropical hills and lagoons
After a leisurely morning of exploring our hotel’s gardens – a tropical paradise of gigantic proportions – we were ready for more and set off on our first real hike from Furnas to the nearby lagoon, where rumour had it some pretty unusual cooking was taking place. If the Azores are anything, they’re certainly not flat, and the Fosters from East Anglia (a place not renowned for its hills) and I were merrily panting our way up the steep slopes.

For our efforts we were rewarded by beautiful views stretching across the lagoon itself and the surrounding hills. So lovely were the views that we didn’t really mind being told we’d taken a wrong turning and  should have headed downhill instead. Once at the lagoon, we were presented with an extraordinary spectacle. Nature itself seemed to be going wild with enthusiasm here, with sulphurous hot springs and thermal mud pools happily bubbling and spluttering away among the lagoon’s verdant banks. But it’s not just nature that draws the visitors to this spot. This is also where the local restaurateurs gather to pick up their freshly cooked dishes. Pots are simply buried in the hot ground and the food is slow-cooked by the thermal heat. We watched in amazement as pot upon pot was unearthed and carted off to the nearest van for transportation to the restaurants of Furnas in time for Sunday lunch – roast with a twist. Our own picnics weren’t bad grub either and after the munching session we made our way right around the lagoon and back to town to sample some quality aguardente, the local aniseed tipple, in the nearest bar.

For the second day’s hike down to and along the coast, we’d all got into the swing of things. The luscious green landscape was ever-changing as we walked through forests and ravines, along calderas and babbling brooks, down to the coastal community of Ribeira Quente. In the local bar, we found Portugal giving North Korea a right hammering in the football World Cup on the television. There was nothing for it but to join the garrulous locals for a few beers…

Charming towns and bars
With so many islands to choose from, staying on just the one would have seemed almost sacrilegious. So the following day we left São Miguel for São Jorge, a short flight to the northwest. Settling into the town of Velas, there were lovely views opposite the Azores’ highest volcano, Pico, on the island of the same name. Velas itself was a pretty little town of white-washed houses with neat well-tended gardens of bright colourful flowers, all situated on a backdrop of black volcanic rock set against the deep blue sea. After the steep hills and more strenuous hiking of  São Miguel, we opted for a flatter, easier walk on São Jorge. Setting off from Sete Fontes (named after its seven fountains, of which there are apparently now only five – none of them we could spot anyway) the path led through almost technicolour green fields to the westernmost point of the island at Ponta dos Rosais. Surrounded by quietly munching sheep, we soon reached an abandoned, somewhat rough-looking, lighthouse at the end of the trail. Behind it was a sheer drop with more stunning views of the turquoise sea below and the steep cliffs displayed a beautiful vivid mix of red, black and green.

Grateful that we didn’t have to trek up or down the cliffs, I settled into a gentle pace along the southern coastline towards the small community of Rosais itself. Before even getting there, thirst was setting in amongst the party and we found an even tinier hamlet where – lo and behold – there was a watering hole. The bar was run by a tremendously elderly couple: the man was seemingly half blind and the woman had the majority of her teeth missing, but looked very dignified in a head scarf and all-black outfit. Surely they had never had such an influx of non-Portuguese speaking strangers descend upon their bar as on this afternoon of glorious sunshine? Nor had they experienced such enthusiastic gratitude towards their cold beers and delicious chilled wines. All suitably refreshed, we rambled off down the road towards Rosais and the promise of another uniquely exotic and charming Azorean experience.

For your chance to win a holiday to the Azores, courtesy of Ramblers Worldwide Holidays (new brochure out now), simply answer this question: name the percentage financial guarantee you receive when booking with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays. Complete the entry form at www.walkmag.co.uk/competitions by 31 March 2011 or send your name, address and contact number to: Azores Holiday Competition, Ramblers Worldwide Holidays, Lemsford Mill, Lemsford Village, Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire AL8 7TR. The first correct entry picked at random after the closing date will win the holiday. Terms and conditions are available at www.walkmag.co.uk/competitions

The two-week ‘Charm of the Azores’ trip with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays (✆ 01707 331133, www.ramblersholidays.co.uk) starts from £1,699 per person, including flights, accommodation, half board and the services of an expert tour leader.